Safely Decontaminating Your Paintwork

While paint decontamination isn't required during every wash, it's a crucial step in any full detail. Essentially, a thorough decon goes deeper into the surface than regular maintenance washes, removing embedded impurities and preparing the paint for correction and finishing.

At a minimum, we recommend decontaminating your paint twice a year: once before winter to apply protection for the cold season, and again afterward to remove salt, brake dust, and road grime. For dedicated detailing enthusiasts, decontaminating four to five times a year is typically enough to maintain a flawless finish.

So, what does "decon" actually entail? In simple terms, it's a series of professional cleaning processes aimed at getting your paintwork cleaner than ever before.

Here are five simple steps to guide you through the products to use and how to achieve the best results—even on a well-worn daily driver.

Step 1 - Pre-wash & Contact Wash

We can’t stress it enough: the wash stage is crucial for maintaining a swirl-free paint finish. However, when incorporating paint decontamination into the process, an effective pre-wash and contact wash become even more important. This is because you'll be performing additional steps that directly contact the paint's surface. It’s obvious that dragging grit and heavy dirt across your car is something you want to avoid at all costs.

With that in mind, preparation is key before moving on to the decontamination stage. The best approach is to start with a thorough pre-wash using a suitable chemical cleaner, such as Dynamite Traffic Film Remover or Citrus Power Bug and Grime Remover. Next, apply Avalanche Snow Foam, and by the time you rinse, you’ll have effectively loosened and removed any heavy dirt and grime.

After the pre-wash, move on to the contact wash, making sure to always perform a full two-bucket wash before starting decontamination, even if your car appears clean. As usual, begin with the roof and other upward-facing panels, then work your way down to the front, lower half, and finish with the rear.

Once you're satisfied that your car is thoroughly clean, you can move on to the more advanced decontamination stages, beginning with the "decon wash."

Step 2 - Decon Wash

The decon wash stage is specifically designed to eliminate one of the most damaging types of contamination: sharp metal particles. While these tiny particles may not be visible to the naked eye, most vehicles are affected by this type of contamination. If left untreated, the buildup of metal particles on the paint surface can lead to significant oxidation issues over time.

Metal contamination comes from several sources, with the most common being brake dust—produced not just by your own car but also by others on the road, especially on motorways. On a microscopic level, these sharp ferrous (iron) particles embed themselves into your paint. The issue worsens when the brake dust is "fresh," as the heat generated by braking friction causes the particles to burn deeply into the paint. This intense heat helps them bond to the surface so tightly that they cannot be removed with a standard contact wash.

Contrary to popular belief, metal particles aren’t just a problem on the lower half of your car. Ferrous contamination can often be found all over the vehicle, including on the roof. Other sources of this iron fallout include deposits from nearby train lines. So, if you’re someone who parks near a station every day, you can see why your car may be especially vulnerable to this type of contamination.

As mentioned, traditional methods can’t remove fallout, and the only way to safely eliminate metal contamination is through a chemical reaction. That’s why the decon wash stage requires a product specifically designed to tackle ferrous materials – our Iron Out Contaminant Remover.

As long as the car is cool to the touch, you can apply Iron Out directly to the paintwork, and you'll notice the reaction happening almost instantly. As the ferrous deposits are dissolved, they will temporarily turn a blood-red colour, a process known as "bleeding." Once the reaction is complete, simply rinse the area with clean water to remove the dissolved contaminants.

In most cases, a single application of Iron Out will effectively remove iron particles from the surface. However, for heavily contaminated areas, you can apply a second layer and work it into the paint with a microfibre pad. After rinsing it off, your paint should be free of metal contamination. If you're uncertain, spray a small amount of Iron Out onto a microfibre or sponge pad, gently wipe it over the surface, and watch for a reaction. The bleeding will cease once all the metal particles have been eliminated.

In addition to ferrous fallout, Iron Out Contaminant Remover also tackles other stubborn deposits, such as jet fuel residue (aviation fallout) and the tough stains often left by diesel exhaust smoke.

Step 3 - Tar & Glue Removal

Some of the most persistent contaminants you'll encounter are tar, adhesive residues, tree sap, rubber marks, and fuel stains. These come from various sources, but the key is to remove them from the paint before proceeding with further decontamination. Doing so reduces the risk of scratching or marring when you begin using clay – but we'll cover that step shortly.

What these contaminants have in common is that they are sticky, oil-based stains. To effectively remove them, you'll need a powerful solvent-based solution, like ObliTARate, to break them down and make it easier to wipe them away.

Working in small sections, spray a light mist of the product and wipe it away with a clean microfiber cloth as soon as you notice the stains start to dissolve. The contaminants will be visibly lifted off the surface and onto the cloth.

ObliTARate is designed to break down even the toughest stains, including sticky factory wax coatings, overspray, and traffic cone marks. Once these contaminants are removed, it's important to rewash the entire car with Lather Shampoo to neutralise any remaining solvent or Iron Out residue. After that, simply dry the car as usual and proceed to the next step.

Step 4 - Claying

Claying might seem like a complicated process, but in reality, it's straightforward and essential for achieving a truly clean paint surface. The purpose of claying is to remove deeply embedded contaminants that are often invisible to the naked eye. These include mineral deposits from water, tree sap, protein residues from bugs and bird droppings, as well as industrial fallout and paint overspray. Even small particles, if left on the surface for too long, can cause damage to your paintwork. Over time, contamination builds up, which is why claying is a crucial step in maintaining a decontaminated finish. The difference is tangible — simply run your hand over the paint before and after claying, and you’ll immediately feel the smoothness.

At Auto Finesse, we offer two types of clay products: the classic Kaolin Clay Bars and the more modern Handi Clay, which can be used with our Handi Puck system for added convenience.

The key to using both types of clay is to apply our Glide Clay Lube to protect your paint. Detailing clay works by using its sticky surface at a microscopic level to lift away impurities, so the lube ensures it glides smoothly, minimising the risk of marring. The process is simple: work on one panel at a time, spraying the lube generously and using a clean piece of clay to gently move back and forth with light to medium pressure. Initially, you’ll feel resistance as the clay picks up contaminants, but as the surface becomes smoother, the clay will glide effortlessly. Once it moves with little resistance, the panel is free from impurities—wipe it down with a clean microfibre cloth and move on to the next.

Clay is completely safe for use on paintwork, but it’s important to avoid using it on areas with visible embedded contaminants. Always use a fresh piece of clay for each panel, or fold it to expose a clean surface when it gets dirty. Regularly check the clay for debris, and if you happen to drop it on the floor, discard it and start with a new piece. A useful tip for Handi Clay Pads is to start with the glass. This helps to soften and break in the pad’s surface, making it more effective for the rest of your detailing.

Step 5- Finishing

Once you've completed the decontamination process, keep in mind that you've effectively removed any existing protective layers. After all that hard work, you certainly don't want to leave your paint unprotected. The good news is that your paint is now in the ideal condition for applying wax or sealant, or for any level of paint correction, whether by hand or machine polishing.

After polishing and applying your preferred LSP, your paintwork will not only look better but feel smoother than ever before.