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The Most Important Stage In Detailing
We firmly believe that the wash is the most important part of any detailing process, no matter the size of the job. It's the foundation for everything that follows. Whether you're preparing for a full decontamination and correction or simply washing off the week’s worth of commuting grime on a previously detailed car, getting the wash stage right is essential. Here's why:
- The majority of paint defects and swirl marks are caused during the washing process.
- Most protection and sealant loss occurs due to improper washing techniques.
- Incorrect products or dilution ratios are the primary cause of trim tarnishing.
Choose your products based on the task at hand. You wouldn’t use a sledgehammer to hang a picture frame, so don’t reach for the strongest product for every job. A common mistake we see is people opting for the quickest solution, which can set them off on the wrong foot, especially when it comes to wheels. Iron Out is an excellent product for deep cleaning your wheels, but it should be reserved for occasional use. You don’t need to use it on every wash. Think of Iron Out as a decontamination tool – use it for a thorough clean when needed, then seal the wheels and maintain them with a regular cleaner. Overusing strong products can cause premature wear on uncoated or painted components around your wheels. Tip: Use Iron Out for quarterly deep cleans, and Imperial for routine maintenance washes.
Pre-Detail Wash
- Pre-Wash: Dynamite 1:5 to 1:7 for heavier grime, bugs, road film, etc.
- Snow Foam: Avalanche 1:8
- Lather: 2-4 caps full per bucket
Maintenance Wash
- Pre-Wash: Citrus Power for bugs and road grime.
- Snow Foam: Avalanche 1:8
Shampoo Selection
When choosing a shampoo, it really depends on your preference. Most "true" detailers opt for a shampoo that simply cleans without affecting the protection layer. This is because they want the sealant or wax to maintain its performance and water-repelling qualities without interference from another product. On the other hand, those whose protection is nearing the end of its life cycle or aren't happy with their current wax/sealant may prefer a shampoo with a rinse/gloss additive to boost the look temporarily. There’s no right or wrong approach—it's all about what suits your needs and preferences.
Always begin with the upward-facing panels of your vehicle, then move on to dirtier areas like the lower doors and rear sections. We recommend washing a quarter to half of a standard-sized panel at a time (adjust based on the size of the vehicle you're working on).
The two-bucket wash method is essential for every wash. Rinse any contamination from your wash mitt in one bucket, then dip it into the fresh wash solution in the second bucket. This ensures you're always working with clean, fresh shampoo from start to finish.
For a car that’s about to undergo decontamination and polishing, there's no need to overdo it at this stage. A high-quality drying towel and ensuring all rinse water is thoroughly cleared will be enough before moving on to the next steps in your detail.
For vehicle maintenance, here are a few tips to make this stage easier and help prevent swirls:
1. Use an open-end hose rinse to remove most of the standing water.
2. Lightly spritz each panel with your preferred quick detailer before drying.
Wash
We’ve always said it; the contact wash stage (or the ‘wet work’) is likely the most important part of car detailing process. This is because it not only lays the foundation for ev...
